PET TIPS
••• Unable to Care For Your Pet? ••• Dog Grooming Tips ••• Spay & Neutering •••
••• Cold Weather Tips ••• Humane Education ••• 2006 Licenses •••
••• Preparing For Your New Pet ••• Household Poisonous ••• First Aid for Dogs •••
•••  Caring for Cats ••• Puppy Care & Training ••• House Training ••• 
••• Kitty Won't Use Litter Box ••• Choosing The Right Breed of Dog ••• 
••• Introducing Pets To Each Other ••• Introducing Your Pet & New Baby •••
IF YOU OR SOMEONE YOU KNOW IS THINKING ABOUT BREEDING DOGS, PLEASE CHECK OUT THIS SITE
NOW HERE
Cold Lake 2007 Pet Registration Tags

Here is an easy way to help the orphaned animals at the Lakeland Humane Society:
A portion of all City of Cold Lake pet registration tags purchase at the Lakeland Humane Society will go back to
the homeless animals waiting for new homes at the adoption centre.
All dogs and cats living in the City of Cold Lake are to be licensed with the City of Cold Lake. Failure to due so can result in a fine.
FEES: $20 for a spayed or neutered Dogs or Cats (proof must be provided)
$40 for all dogs or cats that are not spayed or neutered.
For more information please call us at (780) 594-1896 or call the City of Cold Lake at (780) 594-4494

Give your pet a ticket home. Register Your Pet Today!

HUMANE EDUCATION

We have a variety of materials (videos, literature, etc)
available for presentations to schools and community groups.
• Bite Free Dogs • Importance of Spay / Neuter
• Responsible Pet Ownership • Be Kind to Animals

Please contact us for a presentation 594-1896
COLD WEATHER TIPS

Please remember it is the law that all cats and dogs be provided with adequate shelter.
It is too cold here to leave your animal outside without shelter.

Seconds, please. Give your pet more food during cold weather than you do during hot months.
Dogs, for example, may need up to 25 percent more energy in the winter than they do in the summer, especially those that exercise outdoors.

Scat cat Before starting your car on cold days, honk the horn to scare away any cat that may be hiding in the warm engine compartment.

Fatal attraction When refilling your car's radiator, be sure to clean up any spilled antifreeze. Ethylene glycol has a sweet taste to both dogs and cats, and is highly toxic.

Dry cleaning Don't neglect pet grooming in the winter. While a regular bath is unwise unless you have a good dryer, combing and even "dry" bathing will keep your pet's coat clean and healthy, and reduce odor. To give your pet a dry bath, brush corn starch or baby powder into your cat's or dog's coat, and then thoroughly brush it out.

The big chill Don't leave your pet outside for long periods of time. Low body temperature (hypothermia) can quickly result, and can lead to death. If the wind chill index is below 20 degrees, do not take small house pets, older dogs and cats, or short-haired dogs outside. If you must take your pet out in cold weather, dress it in a knit sweater, which will give it an added layer of protection.

Cold feet After bringing your pet indoors, check its feet to make sure ice has not formed between its toes. If it has, carefully clean the pet's feet and pads with warm water and a cloth. In addition, if you use salt to melt ice on your driveway or sidewalk, clean your pet's feet after every trip outside.

Water, water, everywhere If your pet is kept outdoors, be sure it always has a fresh supply of water, and check frequently to be sure the water hasn't frozen.

Open door policy Increased numbers of visitors during the holiday season may provide an opportunity for your pet to slip out the door unnoticed. Keep an eye on your cat or dog when guests arrive and depart, and be sure your pet has proper identification in case it does get out.

Please remember it is the law that all cats and dogs be provided with shelter. It is too cold here to leave your animal outside without shelter.
Spaying and Neutering

One male and one female cat can have approximately four litters of four kittens per year. Over the course of ten years, all those cats and the resulting offspring would add up to 80,399,780 cats!

We understand the cost of spaying or neutering seems pricey at first glance,
but it is a one-time cost and a relatively small one in the lifelong cost of caring for a pet.
It is also a small price to pay for your pet’s improved health and for prevention
an unwanted litter (which brings about even more expense for food, care, and veterinary costs). Consider this too: It costs less then what most people spend at the hairdresser each year!

Spaying or neutering will NOT cause an overall personality change.
Instead, the reduction of hormones as a result of the surgery will likely reduce
the pet’s irritability and moody behavior. Spayed and neutered (“altered”) pets are
less likely to roam, bite (people or animals), or fight other animals.
They generally become more affectionate companions as well. Neutered cats are less
likely to spray and mark their territory. Spaying a female dog or cat eliminates its heat cycle
(in dogs- up twenty-one days long, twice a year; in cats- three to fifteen days,
three or more times a year). Females in heat often cry incessantly,
show nervous behavior, and attract unwanted male animals.
Dog Grooming Tips

Proper grooming is an important part of pet care. It makes a companion animal look better, and contributes to their physiological and psychological health.

Coat

Brush your pet thoroughly every day. This will keep the hair in good condition by removing dirt and debris, as well as spreading the natural oils throughout the coat. This will prevent tangles and keep the skin clean and free from irritation.

Nails

Trim your pet's nails about once a week. Either a scissor- or guillotine-style nail clipper can be used and a small bottle of blood-clotting powder

How to Cut Your Pet's Nails

1. Have your companion animal sit beside you. Then place one of their paws in your hand and gently pull it forward.

2. Gradually shorten one nail. Be sure to stop before you reach the quick, which is the part of the nail that contains nerves and blood vessels. If you cannot see the quick clearly, stop cutting just behind the point at which the nail begins to curve downward.

3. If you cut into the quick, do not panic. Put some clotting powder on a moist cotton swab and press it firmly against the nail for several seconds.

Ears

Ear care is an important part of grooming. Ears should be cleaned and plucked weekly. Ear infections cannot only be painful, but lead to permanent hearing loss. The signs of a problem with a companion animal's ears include redness, constant scratching,
head shaking and odour.

1. Check your companion animal's ears. The skin inside and on the flaps should be pale pink. If there is a foul odour and/or any red, brown or black skin, have a veterinarian examine your pet's ears.
2. Moisten a cotton ball with warm water or a little mineral oil and use it to clean the opening into the canal and the flaps. Do not probe too deeply into the canal.

Teeth

Companion animals can get cavities and develop periodontal disease, so their teeth should be cleaned with a pet toothpaste at least twice per week. It is best to use a small toothbrush that has soft bristles. Cleanings performed by a veterinarian may also be required.

How To Bathe Your Dog

Bathe your companion animal once every two months or as often as needed. Be sure to brush him or her before each bath in order to get all of the mats out of his or her coat.

Place a rubber mat in your bathtub, or a towel in your sink, for secure footing. Then place a cotton ball in each of your companion animal's ears to prevent water from entering.

Rinse your pet with warm water. Use a spray hose if one is available, but be sure to keep the nozzle very close to your companion animal's body. Never spray him or her in the face.

Apply a shampoo designed especially for pets in small amounts, working from the head to the tail. Be sure to clean the rectum, between the toes, behind the ears and under the chin. Try to avoid getting shampoo in your companion animal's eyes.

Thoroughly rinse your pet with warm water.

Dry your companion animal with a towel; human hair dryers are too hot and can burn the animal.
Are you unable to care for your pet anymore?

If you are considering surrendering your animal to us please make sure that you have everything possible to rectify the situation if it can be rectified. For example if the dog is not well behaved try obedience training. This can help fix all kinds of problems.

If you have made up your mind about surrendering your animal to us call us before bringing your animal in. This will allow us to set us accommodations for your animal as we are normally quite full of animals. The surrender process takes about half an hour and please make sure to bring any paper work you may have on the animal; such as veterinary papers, obedience certificates, etc. Please leave you animal in the vehicle until the necessary paper work is complete. There is a surrender fee to surrender an animal to the Lakeland Humane Society. This will help pay for wages to care for the animal, food, medical expenses, and any other expenses incurred while caring for this animal. It is always easier for the animal if you bring something familiar for the animal like a bed or toys to help them feel a bit more secure. When you surrender your animal you are signing over all rights to this animal; this animal then becomes property of the Lakeland Humane Society. The Lakeland Humane Society will make every effort to find your pet a suitable new home, but we can not guarantee that placement will be made. We can not inform you of the outcome.

Surrender Fees:

$65.00 FOR EACH ANIMAL
$50.00 EACH FOR TWO OR MORE ANIMALS FROM THE SAME HOUSEHOLD
$100.00 EACH FOR ONE LITTER OR FOR ONE PREGNANT ANIMAL
Why does the Lakeland Humane Society charge a surrender fee when someone
needs to give up their pet(s)?



Surrender fees only covers a small portion of what is cost to care for each animal that stays at our facility. The cost to care for animals adds up very quickly with such items as:

Feeding
Cleaning
Vaccinations
Deworming
Medical Attention (when needed)
Wages to provide care for the animal (7 days a week, 565 days a year; there
are no holidays)
Time and effort put into promoting animals to find them a home
Maintenance of records for each animal
Insurance, utilities, and maintenance of building that provides shelter
Gas, insurance, and maintenance on the vehicle used to transport each animal
to veterinarians or events

Please remember we try our absolute best to find all of our adoptable animals new loving homes. This means that that there are times when the animal might be with us for months or even years in some cases. The average stay for our animals before they are adopted is 35 days.
Preparing for Your New Pet
Before you bring your new animal friend home, it is best to be prepared prior to prevent unnecessary confusion and stress to the animal and yourself.

Establish the rules. Who is responsible for this animal; grooming, feeding, exercising, cleaning, playtime, and off-limit areas for your new pet. Set up a schedule.

Purchase all necessary supplies ahead of time. Food, bowls, leash, collar, identification, brush, bed and shelter. Find a local veterinarian for your pet.

Pet-proof your home. Put away household chemicals, such as cleansers, insecticides, and antifreeze. Make sure all poisonous substances and sharp objects are out of reach. Items such as garbage, medicine, pins, elastics, thread and needles (even your favourite shoes!).

Place houseplants out of reach. Many houseplants are poisonous.
Have separate areas for your new pet and any existing pets. Pets need to be introduced to one another slowly until they are accustomed to each other. Species, breed, size, gender, age, temperament, and health all contribute to their initial encounter.

Keep doors closed. This includes the doors to your washer/dryer, closets and cupboards and all other areas you do not want your pet in.

Be patient. Praise and encourage your pet as it adjusts to life in a new home.
HOUSE HOLD ITEMS THAT ARE POISONOUS TO ANIMALS
(This does not cover everything this is toxic to animals)

Remove any rat or mouse poisonings and windshield wiper fluid from your house
(Those printed in all caps can be fatal)



• Alcohol • ALMONDS • Amaryllis bulb • Anthurium • APRICOT • ASPIRIN •
• AUTUMN CROCUS • Avocado • Azalea • BEGONIA • Bird of paradise •
• Bittersweet • BLEEDING HEART • Boxwood • Bracken Fern • Buckeye •
• Buttercup • Caffeine • Caladium • CALLA LILLY • Castor bean •
• Cherry • CHINESE SACRED OR HEAVENLY BAMBOO •
• CHOCOLATE • CHOKE CHERRY • Chrysanthemum • Clematis •
• Crocus bulb • Croton • Daffodil • Delphinium, larkspur • Dumb cane •
• Elderberry • English Ivy • Fig • Four-o&Mac226;clocks • FOXGLOVE • GARLIC•
• GRAPES • Hyacinth bulbs • HYDRANGEA • Holly berries • Iris corms •
• JACK-IN-THE-PULPIT • JIMSON WEED • Kalanchoe • LANTANA •
• Lilly • LILLY OF THE VALLEY • Lupine species • MARIJUANA OR HEMP •
• MILKWEED • MISTLETOE BERRIES • MORNING GLORY •
• Mountain laurel • Narcissus • OLEANDER • ONION • PAINKILLERS •
• PEACH • PENCIL CACTUS • Philodendron • Pointsetta • Potato •
• Rhododendron • Rhubarb leaves • Rosary Pea • RAISINS • Schefflera•
• Shamrock • Spurge • Tomatoes • VITAMINS • YEW •
FIRST AID FOR DOGS

In case your dog gets sick or gets in an accident, it helps to know what to do. Here is some good advice on dealing with such problems as poisoning, cut paws, and diarrhea.

The following information will help you when it comes to giving first aid to your dog in an emergency. Print this out and keep it accessible, for example, next to your veterinarian's telephone number. This page is only a guide - always call your veterinarian for advice.

Road accident
You may actually see the incident, or your dog may return injured. Ensure that your dog is removed from further possible injury, i.e. off the road. Keep your dog as quiet, still and as comfortable as you can. Restrain him if necessary to prevent further injury. Put pressure on any obviously bleeding points with a clean bandage or cloth. Call your veterinarian as soon as possible to get advice.

Cut paw
Sudden bleeding due to a laceration from broken glass or other sharp object often happens on beaches and out on walks. If bleeding is profuse, wrap the paw in gauze dressing or clean cloth and put a firm ace bandage with even pressure around the paw. Take the dog to your veterinarian for appropriate treatment. Never use an elastic band or other form of tourniquet around the limb, especially for prolonged periods (over 15 minutes).

Injured eye
Look carefully for any obvious foreign body, such as a grass seed. Perforating foreign bodies must be removed very carefully under general anaesthetic by a vet, as they can easily be pushed in further. This may be done by flushing the eye with clean, warm water. Prevent the dog from rubbing the affected eye with his paws or on furnishings, and take him to a vet for examination and treatment. If the eye is severely injured then cover it with a damp gauze and take the dog to the vet immediately.

Vomiting
It isn't too worrying if your dog vomits occasionally, and it is only when it occurs several times over a short period of time, or the animal appears generally unwell that you need be concerned. If your dog is vomiting persistently, take note of both the act of vomiting and the nature of what he vomits, so that you can describe it to your veterinarian. Collect some vomit in a bottle for the veterinarian to examine. Do not feed your pet, and call your veterinarian for advice.

Acute diarrhea
This is defined as very loose stools which may contain blood and/or mucus. Sometimes, it's accompanied by vomiting. Withhold all food and keep your dog warm. Offer small volumes of water with some glucose, or weak bouillon. If the dog is weak, lethargic or depressed, take him to your veterinarian immediately. If he's otherwise bright, make a vet appointment at the next available time. Telephone your veterinarian first and take careful note of any advice given.

Stings and snake bites
This is often identified by sudden acute pain often followed by swelling and sometimes discoloration of the skin. If a dog has been stung in the throat, breathing may be difficult. Keep your dog cool and avoid any exercise. If swelling persists for more than one hour, or if the sting is around the face or neck, take your dog to the veterinarian.
Keep the tongue forward and the airway clear if possible. If a limb has been subjected to a snake bite, a firm pressure bandage should be placed around the limb. Identify the type of snake if possible, and take your dog to the veterinarian immediately.

Fits or seizures
When your dog is having sudden, uncontrolled spasmodic movements, often with champing of the jaws and usually accompanied by salivation, urination and defecation, then he's having a fit or a seizure. Your dog may also fall onto its side. Keep an eye on violent twitching of the muscles under the skin of the head, neck and limbs.
First thing you should do is to remove the collar and ensure that the dog is away from any danger (e.g. fireplaces, stairs, unstable tables). Make sure he can breathe by holding the head and keeping neck extended if possible. Do not put your fingers inside the dog's mouth. Keep the environment darkened and quiet and prevent all sudden noises like door bells and slamming doors. Most fits are over quite quickly (although it seems a long time!)
Make a note of the exact signs before, during and after the seizures and call your veterinarian as soon as possible.

Sudden earache
Your dog will scratch his ear and may hold his head to one side. He may rub it along the ground, shake his head, whine and be reluctant for anyone to touch his ear. If this is a sudden onset, there may be grass seed, foxtail, or another foreign object in the ear. Do not put anything at all in the ear and contact your vet. Ear problems must be attended to early, before secondary changes occur, making the condition more difficult to treat.

Known poisoning
If you or someone in your family see your dog swallowing a known poison, call your vet for advice immediately. Seek his or her advice quickly and take the rest of the poisonous agent and/or its packaging to the veterinarian if it is available.

Choking
Your dog may be gagging, or tearing frantically at its mouth with its paws. Try to open his mouth and remove the obstructing object - note that you stand the chance of being bitten in doing this. Look at the roof of the mouth, as sometimes sticks or bones get wedged across the top.
In some cases a general anaesthetic may be required to safely remove an object from the mouth area. Even after you have removed the object, it's a good idea to get your dog checked by your veterinarian.

Collapse
If your dog collapses, get veterinary advice immediately. Put your dog onto a blanket and keep his airway free by extending the neck and holding the tongue out of the way.

Bloat
If your dog's abdomen appears distended and full of gas, phone your vet immediately, and arrange for an immediate appointment.

Transporting your dog to the veterinary practice in an emergency
It is usually preferable to take your dog to the vet hospital rather than for your veterinarian to come out. This is because there is specialized equipment and trained personnel in the practice. Do not give your dog anything to eat or drink, just in case he requires a general anaesthetic. Gently slide your dog onto an old blanket or coat on the ground, dragging with the body first.
Two people can pick up the corners of the blanket to form a soft stretcher to transfer the dog to the back seat of the car. The person walking backwards should go right through the car so the dog can be lowered gently onto the seat. Someone should stay in the back with the dog on the way to the clinic. If the dog is trying to bite, a necktie or bandage can be temporarily tied around his muzzle. Do not leave it on for any prolonged period as this may compromise his breathing. If the dog is panting, do not tie his muzzle closed.
Finally, notify the veterinary practice that you are on your way so that they can prepare for your arrival.
CARING FOR CATS

Cats have been domesticated for more then 5,000 years.

When you are thinking about adopting a cat first make sure you know how to properly care for a cat including have the cat spayed/neutered, vaccinated, fed, groomed, etc. You should also always find out the laws in your area that apply to cats such as licensing, and whether or not the cat must be leashed. In Cold Lake the bylaws state that your cat cannot run at large and your cat must be licensed with the City of Cold Lake. If you do not follow these laws you can be fined. Next you should make sure that you are willing and can to commit to taking care of that animal for the rest of its life; which can be up to 20 years.

Before you bring home a cat you will need to have cat/kitten food, a food dish, a water bowl, safe toys, a brush, a comb, a safe cat collar or harness, scratching post, litter box, and litter.

Keeping your cat inside helps to protect your cat from becoming lost, stolen, injured, poisoned, or killed. This also helps to protect your cat from being exposed to infectious diseases and parasites.

When it comes to feeding adult cats should be fed one large meal or a few smaller meals each day. Six to twelve week old kittens should be fed about four times a day. Three to six month old should be fed three times a day. Make sure to through out any left over canned food after about 30 minutes and it is a good idea to keep dry food available to them at all times. Make sure to always have fresh, clean water available for the cat at all times. Wash and refill water and food dishes everyday. It is recommended that you should not give cats cows milk, it can cause diarrhea in kittens and cats.

Cats spend about 10% or more of their day grooming themselves but cat should also be groomed by humans as well. Cats should be groomed at least once a week depending on the cat. Brushing help keep your cats fur clean, reduces the amount of shedding and mats, and cuts down on hairballs. You should also cut your cats nails, brush your cats teeth, and clean your cats ears once a week. Cats can also be bathed; this will help to keep them clean and can help people with allergies.
PUPPY CARE AND TRAINING

Puppy's Place in the Family
The reason dogs are such good pets and fit so well into human society is that they are social animals by nature. Their greatest psychological need is to be part of a group. Whether it's a family of just you and puppy, or a boisterous household full of children and pets, in order to be happy your new puppy must feel secure about her place in the group.
If you watch puppies at play, you will see a lot of growling and tussling. There is more to this play fighting than meets the eye. Those little guys are already deciding who is going to be "top dog". Whether you realize it or not, something very much like this play fighting is happening at home between your puppy and the rest of the family.

To be confident and secure what puppies need most is a master they can depend on. For your dog to have a happy life and be a pleasure to own, at least one person in the family must become such a master. Dogs have no mental concept of "friends and equals". Somebody has to be boss. Assertive puppies will grow up trying to be boss, which won't make either one of you happy. A submissive puppy may spend its entire life fretting and worrying, never sure what is expected. Everything usually works out just fine automatically--puppies find their place in the family without much trouble and everyone is happy with the arrangement. If, on the other hand, you have a strongly assertive or unusually submissive pet there are some things you should keep in mind:

Working with an assertive puppy
Assertive puppies tend to immediately investigate new people and objects. They are quick to begin play fighting activities with people. When they want to be petted or fed, they are insistent and demanding. These puppies fall easily into the role of family protector because they think the people belong to them. This is well and good, but because dogs cannot really understand human society, there is soon trouble. They may try to defend you from everyone, and biting the UPS man because he invades your yard is not ok. Biting the children is not ok. The most serious problems happen when grandchildren are involved. Perceived either as an outside threat or a competitor, it is not unusual for grandchildren to be badly injured by big assertive dogs.
The training techniques used to establish your teacher-learner relationship are especially important. Remember that your dog will be much happier in the long run if he earns praise and pleasure by obeying you, not by demanding it.

It is especially important for you to be master. Do not allow your dog to nip or bite at you in a friendly way. Do not stimulate your puppy by waving your arms and acting excited or by playing tug of war. Do not become what your puppy perceives to be an equal and competitive playmate.
Working with a submissive puppy
Submissive puppies tend to "shy away" from new people or things, either by lying down or actually running away. It is normal for most puppies to be slightly submissive. They wish for nothing more than to please you and this makes them easy to train.
Teach shy puppies things they can do that will earn your calm, reassuring praise. Try to provide a peaceful environment and a dependable schedule that includes exercise, a daily obedience session, and reliable feeding times.

Submissive urination
Most puppies and young dogs have a tendency to urinate in response to new situations, when meeting a stranger, or even when their owners come home and greet them excitedly. This is a sign that your puppy is uncertain about what is expected. Never scold when this happens. Puppy is already trying hard to please. Calmly reassure, ignoring the urination. Clean up later, in private.

Fear biting
If puppies don't know what is expected of them, particularly if they are beginning to believe that people are supposed to do what dogs tell them to do, they may react inappropriately to strangers. The puppy is afraid, but psychologically unable to be completely submissive. They usually show signs of fear and try to run away from a threatening situation, but when escape is prevented, they bite. It happens when children insist on petting a frightened dog, and happens at the veterinarian's office. These puppies need the firm leadership and reassurance best achieved through obedience training.

Destructive Chewing
It is natural for puppies to chew--that's one of the ways they explore and learn. Try to keep valuable objects that are chewable safely out of reach and provide a satisfactory alternative like a Nylabone chew toy. Destructive chewing is merely a way to work off excitement and relieve frustration, not an insidious plan to get even with you. Help encourage your puppy to be calm. Be easygoing. Don't encourage tug of war or play that involves chewing and biting.
When you leave home for the day, don't make it into a big deal for the dog. By showing lots of emotion of any sort (threats or cheerfulness, it doesn't matter) you build up emotional stress. This is often vented in destructive chewing. Your last three or four minutes at home should be spent calmly reading or sitting. Then get up and leave, ignoring your puppy completely--don't even say goodbye. Arrive home the same way. Ignore your puppy at first and avoid the area where things are most likely to have been chewed. If things are a mess when you get home, don't let puppy know you care. Behave calmly. Clean up later when your puppy can't watch. Do not build up more stress by scolding--that just makes things worse. Again, work on teaching simple obedience and building the teacher-learner relationship. Puppies need a calm, dependable master.
Chew Treats, Bones and Toys
Don't give your puppy anything small enough to swallow that can't be digested, or things that can be chewed into large indigestible chunks and swallowed.
Chicken bones, rib bones, and pork bones are the most likely to cause trouble. Old gooey rawhide chews or bones from the butcher that have been around for a few days get rotten and stinky and cause diarrhea. If you give things like this (not really a good idea), use good sense. Bones should be too large to swallow and solid enough that they won't be broken up into smaller chunks.
Hooves, pig's ears, and miscellaneous semi-digestible treats probably aren't a good idea either, but if you use them be sure they are too large to be swallowed whole, or small enough to go all the way through.

What About food?
Choose a dry food intended specifically for puppies, avoiding generic foods and those that sell for unusually low prices. We suggest brand name puppy food because it is impossible to distinguish good dog food from poor dog food simply by looking at the ingredient list on the label. Many things that owners look for, such as high protein levels and extra vitamins, are more likely to be harmful than helpful. For example, overfeeding and over supplementation are factors contributing to hip dysplasia. If you have a large-breed puppy, purchase "large breed" puppy food. The actual formula is different, not just the kibble size, and is better for very rapidly growing puppies.

How often
Offer food to young puppies three times a day. If your puppy isn't hungry that often, reduce the frequency. After ten or twelve weeks of age, feed twice a day.
Even adult dogs should have their food split into morning and evening feedings. When fed once a day dogs become overly hungry and are more likely to overeat at mealtime.
Let your puppy eat as much as she wants in fifteen minutes and then pick up the food dish. Having food continually available encourages overeating, and chubby puppies are more likely to have hip dysplasia and weight problems later in life. Also, because free-fed puppies never get very hungry, they don't enjoy their food unless given special treats. The combination of special treats and freely available food encourages them to become bored, overweight and picky.

People food
Do not give people food. If you start with a balanced diet and add goodies from the table, you won't have a balanced diet anymore, and your puppy will have more digestive trouble. Treats that are reasonably balanced, such as Milk Bone Biscuits are OK, but since they are not really all that great nutritionally, don't let them become an important part of the diet. Canned puppy food is perfectly all right, but we usually suggest feeding dry food because it is cheaper, easier to use, and better for the teeth.

Shots
Between six and sixteen weeks of age, puppies lose the disease protection they received from their mothers and become able to form their own immunity to disease. Unfortunately, we never know when this will happen, so there is often a brief period when puppies have lost the disease protection they received from their mothers but have not yet developed strong immunity of their own. Fortunately, new vaccines for distemper and parvovirus are much more effective than what we had even two or three years ago, and eliminate much of this problem. Also, since the new vaccines work better we don't have to give as many, which saves money.
Until your puppy is four or five months old, try to prevent contact with stray dogs or sick dogs. Avoid boarding your puppy or taking her places like highway rest stops where lots of other dogs go to the bathroom.

Distemper
When we say "distemper shot" we are talking about a combination vaccine (DHLAPPC) which protects against a group of diseases:
Infectious canine distemper (ICD) is a highly infectious viral disease that attacks the lungs and affects the brain and spinal cord in somewhat the same way polio affects people.
Infectious canine hepatitis (ICH) spreads between dogs most often by contact with infected urine. ICH does its worst damage to the liver and can cause loss of vision.

Leptospirosis causes kidney and liver damage and is spread most often via infected urine. The leptospirosis portion of distemper vaccine can cause a reaction if given repeatedly. For this reason, and because Leptospirosis has become a fairly rare disease, we immunize for it only twice during the vaccination series.

Canine adenovirus type 2 (CAV-2) is a respiratory virus that causes a severe form of "kennel cough".

Parainfluenza is another highly infectious respiratory virus that causes coughing.

Canine parvovirus (CPV) attacks the lining of the intestinal tract, and in very young puppies, damages the heart. It remains our most common fatal infectious disease and is the most difficult to protect against. Dobermans, rottweilers and boxer or bulldog type dogs are especially susceptible.

Canine coronavirus (CCV) causes or contributes to parvovirus-like intestinal disease and severe diarrhea. Because coronavirus vaccine is expensive, and since the disease is usually not fatal, many veterinarians omit coronavirus protection from their puppy series or immunize for it separately at additional cost.

Rabies
Spread by animal bites or through the saliva of an infected animal, rabies is always fatal. Because infected pets can give the disease to people, rabies immunization is something you don't want to ignore.
Rabies shots are started at sixteen weeks of age, boostered a year later, and every one to three years after that, depending on local laws and your veterinarian's recommendation. Unvaccinated dogs that come into close contact with a skunk must be quarantined or put to sleep. Vaccinated dogs that have skunk contact should be given a rabies booster as soon as possible, regardless of when they were last immunized.

Lyme disease
Spread by ticks, Lyme Disease has become a significant human health problem in El Dorado County, but because the disease is difficult and expensive to diagnose with certainty, there have been few proven cases in dogs. When we suspect Lyme disease, we treat with antibiotics. The dogs usually get better and we are seldom certain whether the condition being treated was Lyme disease or something else.
Dogs that roam in brushy areas and get lots of ticks should be vaccinated. Those restricted to their own immediate area and never get ticks probably don't need it. Immunization is given as an initial series of two injections three weeks apart followed by an annual booster.

Bordetella
Bordetella, a common cause of "kennel cough", is a severe but rarely fatal respiratory disease. Because it spreads through the air in confined areas, kennel cough is common even in clean, well run boarding kennels. If your dog will be at the groomer's frequently or periodically left at a kennel, it is wise to protect against the disease. Most boarding kennels require it. For dogs that don't need year 'round protection, the best time to administer the vaccine is two to four weeks before going to the kennel.

Worms
Roundworms & Hookworms
Heartguard Plus and Interceptor, two new combination heartworm medications, also kill the intestinal worms common in our area. By using either of these products, we eliminate the need for routine fecal examinations and separate worming medications. However, if your puppy has persistent diarrhea please bring in a small fecal sample to check for other less-common parasites.
Tapeworms
If you see little short white worms (1/2 inch long or less), these are probably tapeworm segments. When the segments dry they look like grains of brown rice and may stick to your dog's hair. If you see anything like this, let us know and we will dispense medicine to use at home. Prescription tapeworm drugs are extremely effective, very safe, and cause no discomfort whatever. Non prescription tapeworm medications don't work very well and often cause intestinal cramps and diarrhea.
Before dispensing medication, we need to know your dog's weight. If he is not extremely small or too large to lift, you can be sufficiently accurate by weighing yourself with and without the dog. Otherwise, bring him along. We will weigh him and set up the prescription when you come in.
Heartworms
Because of a mosquito species that lives in oak trees at our elevation, the Sierra foothills of Northern California have a serious heartworm problem-worse than just about anywhere else in the Western United States. In 1972, approximately one fourth of all heartworm cases reported in California were diagnosed at Placerville Veterinary Clinic. In our area, dogs that don't receive prevention medicine, especially if they sleep outdoors, will probably get heartworms.
If we discover the problem in time, heartworms can be eliminated, but treatment is difficult, dangerous, and expensive. And even with treatment, heartworms cause permanent damage. Although the treatment isn't nearly as dangerous as many people seem to believe, regular testing followed by treatment when needed is not a reasonable alternative to prevention.
Heartworm prevention
We recommend Interceptor Chewable Tablets, because they taste good and need to be given only once a month. In addition, Interceptor kills hookworms, whipworms and roundworms, eliminating the need for separate worming medications and routine fecal examinations. It is important to use Interceptor every month without fail.
Heartworm testing
Dogs with heartworm disease ordinarily have adult male and female worms living in the heart, and microscopic baby heartworms throughout the bloodstream. Baby heartworms become adults only after living in a mosquito and then getting into another dog when it is bitten by the mosquito.
Because we cannot detect heartworms until about six months after infection, we never know for sure if puppies already have heartworms when we start them on prevention medication. Although this is a concern, the risk of puppyhood infection is small, and we can safely wait to perform an initial heartworm test until about fifteen months of age, when rabies and distemper booster vaccinations are given. After that, we encourage you to test every two years to protect against the small possibility that a dose has been missed, or the extremely small possibility that the medicine isn't working.
House Training

Puppies have a strong natural instinct to avoid soiling their own area. If you are consistent and patient, this natural urge for cleanliness makes house training fairly easy. You can begin training any time after five weeks of age. A little extra effort and patience in puppyhood will make the difference later on between a happy, cooperative pet and one that causes problems for you.

Establish a teacher-learner relationship
Use two types of rewards-praise and petting. When your puppy asks for attention, you probably respond by petting, which is only natural. Begin using these requests to show that you are the teacher and your puppy is the learner. It may sound silly but it's important to establish this relationship early in puppyhood.

Each time your puppy asks to be petted, respond by holding your hand about a foot above his nose and saying, "Rover (substitute your dog's name), sit." Move your hand back over his ears as you speak. This makes him look up, which is the first part of sitting. Keep repeating "good sit" until he sits. Then pet him on the throat and chest with your other hand for a few seconds as you repeat the praise. If not successful at first, repeat the procedure. When your dog sits from five to ten seconds, release him from the command by saying "OK", then pet and praise him again. Gradually increase the sitting time until you have reached one or two minutes before you say "OK". Be sure everyone who lives with the pet follows this procedure.

Consistent treatment from the whole family makes for a better adjusted, happier pet. Insist that your pet earn praise.

Teaching where to go
At first, feed at least three times a day. All dogs do not have the same digestive rates-you may need to feed your puppy as often as five times a day in order to avoid overloading his system and causing loose, difficult-to-control bowel movements. When you find the right schedule, the result is a dog that eats and then has a bowel movement within a few minutes.

Feed indoors. Remember, dogs do not like to eliminate where they eat. If your dog is urinating or defecating in a certain area, try feeding him right at that spot (after clean up, of course.)

Right after your dog finishes eating, chase him out good naturedly to his toilet area, ahead of you if possible. Then let him sniff around for a good spot. Do not confuse things by urging him to go. After he goes to the bathroom, crouch down and point at the urine or fecal matter and say "good dog". Look right at the stuff, not at the dog. If your dog sniffs it, praise and pet him enthusiastically.

Take your puppy outside
After waking up, even from a nap
After extreme excitement
After drinking water
After prolonged chewing on a toy, etc.
If he starts sniffing around the house for a good spot
In about four days your pup should automatically head for his proper place after meals or whenever the urge strikes. If it takes longer, be patient.
After this stage of house training, your puppy knows where to go, but not when to go. Do not try to teach self control (the "when" part) until you can be sure he will always head for the door when it's time to go.

Teaching when to go
To teach self control, you must keep feeding times consistent. Don't feed at 7:30 a.m. on week days and then sleep in on Sunday--you'll ruin the whole program. Dogs can control their urine for as long as thirteen hours when they need to. To teach self control, you should try to let your dog outdoors only at times when you are ordinarily home to do so. Whenever you see signs that your pup wants to go to the bathroom during the forbidden hours, try to distract him by tossing a ball, playing with a toy or doing any activity that will take his mind off the urge.

If possible, have your puppy sleep in a room with people. Because he will be inclined to tune into your sleeping times, there will be fewer accidents and less night time disturbance. Given a little blanket as a bed, most puppies soon learn to sleep through the entire night.

Know when he's "got to go"
The most important thing you have to do when "retraining your dog" is recognize when he has to go to the "bathroom". When dogs have to pee, they give off signals like sniffing around or circling. As soon as your spot these signals, take him outside on his leash. If he eliminates outside, praise and reward him immediately - not when you get home.

Tips for keeping your home pee free
Keep an eye on your dog. Look out for his bathroom signals and don't give him an opportunity to pee in the house. You may want to keep him tethered on a long leash or use baby gates.
If you can't watch your dog at all times, confine him to an area that he won't want to mess. It should be just big enough for him to easily stand, turn around and lie down in. You also might want to consider crate training your dog.
Keep your dog on a schedule. Take him out at the same time every day - such as first thing in the morning or right after work. Also, feeding your dog on a set schedule will make his bathroom times more predicable.
Only take him for a walk or play with him after he's eliminated in his bathroom spot.
If you catch your dog going in the house, startle him by making a noise. Then take him directly to his bathroom spot. Don't punish him by scolding him or rubbing his nose in the area. It's important to remember that dogs don't understand punishment after the fact - even if it's only a few seconds later.
How to deal with mistakes

Old fashioned house training methods tell us to grab the puppy, show him the mess and punish him. This is not necessary and probably harmful. Instead, if you discover an accident, just say "ugh" disgustedly and whisk puppy out to his proper toilet area. Leave him there while you clean up the mess. Make sure he cannot see you cleaning up. Strangely, many dogs find it rewarding to watch their owner picking up stools or cleaning urine, and often leave another such gift as soon as they can. Because puppies seem to enjoy this game, it is a good idea to have them watch you clean up after they go to the bathroom in the correct place.

To discourage repeat visits, accidents must be cleaned up well enough to completely eliminate odor. After blotting and cleaning as best you can with paper towels, soak the stained area with an enzymatic cleaner. Let it remain on the stain 30 minutes or longer, blot up the liquid, and if still necessary, use regular rug cleaner afterwards. To work properly, the enzyme cleaner must be used before using regular rug cleaner
Kitty Won't Use The Litter Box

Cats are naturally clean creatures. If your cat is not using her litter box, it may be because:

Litter is too dirty. This is the most common reason. Clean out her litter more often.

Stress. Perhaps your feline is anxious about a move, new furniture or carpeting, a new person or animal in the house ...

Privacy. Cats prefer privacy when attending to its business. Try to keep the tray in place where there is some privacy.

Attracted to a previously soiled location. If your cat keeps returning to one spot, it may be a spot where another pet previously soiled. Make this spot less attractive to your pet.

Place food bowls. Cats do not like to eliminate in the same place they eat.

Neutralize odour. A half and half solution of white vinegar and water

Cover the area with a plastic sheet. Make it unpleasant to your cat and discourage eliminating there.

Cat may not like brand of litter. Cats can be finicky; changed the type of litter used, change it back. If not, experiment with other brands until you find one that the cat likes.

Cat may not know where her litter box is. Common with young kittens or after a move. Place the litter box in a clean, accessible, and relatively quiet location and show your cat where it is. You may want to put the box on the same floor as the cat to begin with.

Cat is marking territory. Male cats sometimes mark their territory of movement by spraying urine on an area. Neutered males are less likely to spray.

Health. If the cat is suffering from health problem it may find difficult to reach litter pan.
If your cat has always used the litter box and has recently started to "mess", take the animal to a veterinarian to rule out any medical conditions.
CHOOSING THE RIGHT BREED OF DOG FOR YOU

Why does one breed appeal to a person over another? Why do some of us love the size, looks and temperament of a Giant Schnauzer and others would never own anything but a Toy Poodle? Every breed has their pros and cons. As a prospective puppy buyer/dog owner, you must be aware of the traits, both good and bad, of the breed you are considering. Many pet owners own the breed they do because of an impulse buy. Sometimes this works out fine and other times they find out, too late, that this is not such a wonderful breed (for them) after all.
Sadly, it's the innocent dog that suffers when it gets placed in a new home, only to be later abandoned or sent to the shelter! Each breed was developed with a definite purpose in mind. Each breed (or most anyway) have breed specific health and or temperament problems of which you should be aware. Some breeds have coats that need hours of grooming to keep the dog in good shape. Some breeds shed more than others. Some breeds are very active and hyper while others are quiet and sedentary. Buying a puppy isn't the same as purchasing a new sofa. A dog is not an inanimate object to be thrown out in the backyard, occasionally fed and watered and forgotten. Buying a puppy, or adopting an older dog is like adopting a child. It's a commitment, or certainly should be, of yourself to this animal until the day it dies. All dogs should be treated as a cherished member of the family. If only one member of the family wants the dog and the others are against it, you should probably wait until everyone is in agreement for both the dog's welfare and your own peace of mind. Also be sure that you have enough time to properly care for, train and spend time with a dog. If you live alone and work 12 hours a day, you probably shouldn't think of owning a dog at this time. Puppies especially, require a lot of time and care. A puppy alone all day isn't going to be a happy puppy. An unhappy puppy is going to get into trouble. And a troublesome puppy is usually discarded. Not good.

WHAT IS YOU FIRST STEP?
. Because different breeds have different characteristics, it's a good idea to first define exactly what traits you want in a dog. Do you want a large dog? Medium, small? What is the main purpose of having the dog, other than companionship? Do you want the dog to hunt with you? Do you want a dog who is a good guard dog? How about children? If you have them, you want to be assured that the breed you choose is going to get along with the kids. And if you do have children, what age are they? A breed of dog that tends to be very hyperactive and aggressive would not be a good choice with very small children as the dog will likely do damage if it jumps on the kid and play bites. However kids in the 10 years and up range would probably thoroughly enjoy an active outgoing playmate. What about grooming? How much time are you willing to spend on this chore? What about shedding? Some dogs don't shed at all and others shed almost constantly. Short coated dogs shed but the hair is shorter so you don't see it as much as you will see the shed from a longer haired breed. How much noise are you willing to put up with? What about your neighbors? Some dogs are constantly yapping and barking while others make almost no sound at all. Basenjis are an example of a 'barkless' breed (perhaps the only example). What about trainability? Some breeds are notoriously difficult to housebreak and/or train while others practically discipline themselves. If your interest is obedience, seek out those breeds that excel in the field. If you're a hunter and have visions of fall days in the duck blind with your trusty dog, you wouldn't go out and buy a Chinese Crested. If you hope to own a dog who will be around for 15 to 16 years, don't purchase a large breed. Some breeds are difficult to keep fenced and require special efforts in this department.

RESEARCHING BREED TRAITS
. There are several way to learn about the traits of different breeds. There are many books on dogs which list the different breeds and give a brief description of that breed. This is a good place to start until you've begun to narrow down your choices. Once you've got your list to 3 or 4 possible breeds, it's time to dig out the details.

Your best sources for this will be the breeders/owners themselves. Long time owners are likely to give you the true story when it comes to the good and bad traits of the breed. Don't be shy about asking questions. Better to make a pest of yourself now than later if you should buy a breed which is not well suited to your lifestyle.

GENERAL BREED TRAITS
Although I don't intend to go into detail here about each breed, the different breeds under their category tend to share some common traits.

Sporting Breeds www.petsandmore.ca/breedinfosporting.html

The more common breeds found in this group are the Irish, Gordon and English Setters, Labrador Retriever, Golden Retriever, Springer Spaniel, American Cocker Spaniel, German Shorthaired Pointer, etc. Dogs in this group are bred to accompany their masters on the hunt as pointers and retrievers. They must be able to work and run long and hard during the course of a hunting day. They are generally medium sized dogs with great energy levels. Some are true water dogs and will retrieve birds from water of all temperatures.

This means that if they aren't employed frequently as hunters, they will tend to employ themselves in these endeavors! Around the home they may be extremely active to the point of annoyance. If you have a collection of pet birds, you might not wish to have these dogs in your home. If you have a swimming pool and own a Labrador Retriever, he'll be found in the pool about 50% of the time! Some sporting breeds can be constant barkers. Others are not so noisy. Be sure to ask. Sporting breeds are not usually thought of as great guards although there certainly can be exceptions to this.

Working Breeds www.petsandmore.ca/breedinfoworking.html
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Some of the more well known breeds in this category include the Great Dane, Doberman Pinscher, St. Bernard, Rottweiler, Great Pyrenees, Boxer, Mastiff, Akita and of course my favorite Giant Schnauzers.

The breeds of the Working Group tend to be fairly large dogs who were originally bred as guards, draft dogs, rescue dogs, and to assist man in his work. They are generally less active than dogs of the sporting breeds and are not so quick to bark. They are not recommended as apartment dwellers although the lack of space can be overcome with adequate exercise. Working breeds are generally easily trained and are friendly with strangers once their master says it's OK. They are extremely loyal to their owners and thrive as family dogs.

Because the dogs of this group tend to be larger than average, they also live shorter lives. They may not necessarily eat more than a smaller dog of the Terrier or Sporting breeds, but they do eat more than most breeds. Their very size can be a drawback as they galump through the house in play. Their teeth can certainly do more damage to the pillow they've stolen from the sofa than the teeth of a Chihuahua.

Hound Group www.petsandmore.ca/breedinfohound.html
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Dogs in this group are bred to run down and hunt game. Some hunt by sight, such as the Afghan Hound, Irish Wolfhound and Greyhound, while others hunt by scent, such as the Bloodhound and Basset Hound.

Within this group you will find great contrasts such as the tallest dog of all the breeds, the Irish Wolfhound and one of the shortest, the Dachshund. The swiftest of all the breeds, the Greyhound and one of the slowest, the Basset Hound. One of the loudest bayers, the Coonhound and the 'barkless' Basenji! Activity levels also vary greatly from the clownish, on the move, Whippet to the sedentary Basset.

Terrier Group /www.petsandmore.ca/breedinfoterrier.html
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Some of the better-known terriers are the Miniature Schnauzer, American Staffordshire Terriers (sometimes erroneously called 'pit bulls'), Scottish Terrier, Wire Fox Terrier and Bull Terriers, both white and colored (also sometimes erroneously called 'pit bulls').

The dogs that make up this group are, for the most part, extremely active dogs. The word, Terrier, derives from the Latin "Terre" which means earth. Terriers were bred to 'go to earth' to route out rats, fox, woodchuck, weasel and other small earth dwelling creatures. The word 'tenacity' fully describes the terrier temperament. They are fiercely loyal and courageous.

Some terriers require what is referred to as 'hand striping' to keep their coats looking good. Although this isn't required if you're not showing, it's something to be aware of. Terriers aren't always suited to multiple dog families and it's a good idea to ask lots of questions regarding each breed.

Toy Breeds www.petsandmore.ca/breedinfotoy.html
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The Toy Poodle, Pomeranian, Miniature Pinscher, Pug and Yorkshire Terrier are some of the more common breeds within this group. Most toys are under 10 pounds in weight. They are bred to be pets and companions.

Because they require little room and don't eat much, they are ideal as apartment dogs. Although small, they are often longer lived that the larger breeds. Beware, however, that these dogs can often be very yappy!

Non Sporting www.petsandmore.ca/breedinfononsporting.html
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Bichons Frises, Chow Chow, Keeshonden, Boston Terrier and the Chinese Shar-Pei are some of the breeds that make up this group. Although most of the breeds in this group have been bred to do a certain job, they didn't fit into any other group so ended up here.

Herding www.petsandmore.ca/breedinfoherding.html
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German Shepherd Dog, Collie, Australian Shepherd, Pembroke and Cardigan Welsh Corgis, and Bouvier de Flanders are a few of this group that was developed to herd livestock. Although most are larger, some, like the Australian Shepherd and Shetland Sheepdog and Corgis are of a smaller size.

Herding breeds are naturally attracted to other animals and if properly trained, get on with most other animals well. They CAN, however, be a nuisance around other animals if not properly trained, giving vent to their instinct to herd those who need no herding at the moment! They can be a very active breed needing proper outlets for their considerable energy. Few breeds are more loyal to their families and people than these dogs.

MAKING YOUR CHOICE
Many people decide that they want to own a certain breed because of their admiration for Lassie or because they've seen a certain breed in a movie and find it's attractive. What they don't consider is the basic temperament of this particular breed as well as the purpose for which it has been bred. Case in point: The number of abandoned Dalmatians in pounds increased by about 80% after Disney's 101 Dalmations finished it's run. Some unscrupulous breeders will pair totally inappropriate dogs if there is a demand in the market, there were still breeders of great Dalmations out there but they became over-shadowed by the "make a fast buck mill operators."

It's very important to keep in mind that breeds that have been bred as guard dogs, for instance, are going to be more protective than other breeds. You cannot expect to own one of these breeds and have it be happy to see every stranger that enters your home as would a Golden Retriever. But in the case of guards, you absolutely must remember that if you have no experience with dog handling and training, you have no business with one of these guys. They are wonderful dogs and fully capable of doing their jobs but in the hands of the novice it's like having a loaded gun you have no idea of how to use! You wouldn't buy a gun and not learn how to use it, so why own a guard breed if you aren't willing to learn how to handle it?

Some breeds have risen to popularity and then been badly used and exploited by those who are out to make a quick buck. The Staffordshire Bull Terrier comes to mind. Here's a breed that was originally bred for the so-called 'sport' of dog fighting. Later many of these aggressive traits were bred out making him into a loyal family member and guard. Then along come those who still want fighting dogs, and proceed to undo all the good that reputable breeders have so painstakingly accomplished over many generations. The resulting dogs from these breedings have caused great damage to the reputation of the segment of the breed that is still trustworthy. You must take these things into consideration when researching your breeds.

Don't purchase a long haired breed if you can't stand hair in the house. Don't get a toy dog if constant yapping drives you nuts. Don't buy a giant breed if you can't afford the feed and upkeep.

ASK THE RIGHT QUESTIONS
. In your fact finding missions, know what questions to ask the breeders and owners of the breeds you're interested in. As mentioned before, all breeds have their pros and cons. You must be aware of them in order to make the right decision.
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1. What is the temperament like?
2. What is the mature size and weight?
3. Are they good with children?
4. What are their indigenous health problems?
5. How long do they live?
6. How much do they shed?
7. How much do they eat?
8. How trainable are they?
9. How house breakable are they?
10. Do they require a lot of grooming?
11. How noisy are they?
12. How protective are they?
13. Do they require any special care or management?
14. Are they good with other dogs and animals?
Introducing Pets to Each Other

Whether or not your pets get along depend on many factors: Species, breed, size, gender, age, personalities and health. Your current pet may view a new pet as a threat; all of these factors contribute to their initial encounter and co-existence. There may be a few scuffles as each animal establishes his "place in the pack". Do not interrupt them if there is no danger of injury, and provided they are supervised at all times. Some pets will merely tolerate each other. Others will become great companions.

Always supervise your pets until you are absolutely sure they get along.

Introduce your pets indoors in controlled situations. Keep your dog(s) on a leash and do not tolerate any aggressive behaviour. If you are introducing a cat to a dog, do not allow the dog to chase or corner the cat - even if it's out of playfulness or curiosity.

When introducing a cat to a dog, do NOT hold the cat in your arms. A frightened or nervous cat may scratch and/or bite. A cat will rarely attack a dog unless it is cornered or threatened.

Allow your new pet to familiarize itself with its new home. Temporarily confine existing pets to a room to give your new pet a chance to feel more comfortable with its surroundings. Give brief periods, for your new pet to explore your home.

Give your pets separate food and water bowls. If you are introducing cats, also provide separate litter boxes. Feed your new and existing pets in different locations.

Give them time. Do not try to force your pets together; allow them to adjust at their own pace. Give all your pets - particularly the new one - time to gain confidence and decide when to face his or her new housemates.
Introducing Your Pet and New Baby

Congratulations, you're expecting a baby! If your family already includes a pet, you will need to help that first "baby" adjust to the new one you will soon bring home. You can ease your pet's stress, by helping the pet welcome your new baby, and ensure that your pet stays where she belongs&Mac247;with you and your growing family.

Can I Keep My Cat?
If you're pregnant, you've probably heard of toxoplasmosis because it can cause serious birth defects. But it can easily be avoided. While the disease-causing parasite can be found in the feces of cats, which ingest raw meat, birds, mice, or contaminated soil, toxoplasmosis is more commonly found in uncooked or undercooked meat.

If you're concerned about a possible exposure, ask your obstetrician to perform a simple blood test. If the result shows you were exposed to toxoplasmosis during pregnancy, you may be given medication and your baby may be tested and treated soon after birth. Keep in mind that the odds of contracting toxoplasmosis during pregnancy are extremely low, and even lower for your baby. Being pregnant does not mean you have to give up living with and caring for your beloved cat. Toxoplasmosis is easily avoided by practicing good hygiene and responsible pet care. Just follow these simple steps to reduce the risk:

-Avoid handling or eating uncooked meat.
-Be certain to wash all cutting boards and utensils that may have come in contact with meat.
-Keep your cat safely indoors and away from wildlife.
-Have someone else clean the litter box daily.
-If you must clean the litter box, wear rubber gloves and thoroughly wash your hands afterward.
-Feed cats only commercially prepared cat food.
-Avoid gardening in areas where animals may have defecated

How Will My Pet React?
No matter how much you plan ahead, the addition of a new family member may be difficult for your pet. Remember, your dog or cat was your first "baby" and is used to being the centre of attention.

You can minimize this feeling by working with her before you bring home your baby. If your pet is particularly attached to the expecting mother, another family member should develop a closer relationship with the animal. That way, the pet can still feel loved and provided for while mom is busy with the baby.

How Can I Prepare My Pet?
Here are several suggestions to make introducing your pet and baby safer and smoother for all. Be sure to carry out these changes months before the baby's arrival to best prepare your pet.

-Take your pet to the veterinarian for a routine health exam and necessary vaccinations.
-Spay or neuter your pet. Not only do sterilized pets typically have fewer health problems, but they are also calmer and less likely to bite.
-Consult with a veterinarian and family doctor if the thought of your newborn interacting with the family pet makes you uncomfortable. By working with these experts before your baby is born, you can resolve problems early and put your mind at ease.
-If your pet's behaviour includes gentle nibbling, pouncing, or swatting at you and others, redirect that behaviour to appropriate objects.
-Get your pet used to nail trims.
-Train your pet to remain calmly on the floor beside you until you invite him on your lap, which will soon cradle a newborn.
-Encourage friends with infants to visit your home to accustom your pet to babies. Supervise all pet and infant interactions.
-Accustom your pet to baby-related noises months before the baby is expected.
-If the baby's room will be off-limits to your pet, install a sturdy barrier such as a removable gate.
-Use a baby doll to help your pet get used to the real thing.
-Talk to your pet about the baby, using the baby's name if you've selected one.
-Sprinkle baby powder or baby oil on your skin so your pet becomes familiar with the new smells.
-Finally, plan ahead to make sure your pet gets proper care while you are at the hospital.

What Do We Do After Baby Is Born?
Welcoming a new baby is exciting for your family. Remember when you first brought home your dog or cat? But before you bring your baby home from the hospital, have your partner or friend take home something with the baby's scent (such as a blanket) for your pet to investigate.

When you return from the hospital, your pet may be eager to greet you and receive your attention. Have someone else take the baby into another room while you give your pet a warm, but calm, welcome. Keep some treats handy so you can distract your pet.

After the initial greeting, you can bring your pet with you to sit next to the baby; reward your pet with treats for appropriate behaviour. Remember, you want your pet to view associating with the baby as a positive experience. To prevent anxiety or injury, never force your pet to get near the baby, and always supervise any interaction, and remember to set aside some special time for your pet.